The Traffic Tango

Get on your bike, take a deep breath, pedal and as a good friend of mine said on my first bike ride in Taipei, “don’t look back, never look back.” She is right.

Traffic here in Taipei is a chaotic dance, a tango for those in the know, but for the uninitiated oh man is it a baptism of flying taxi’s and screeching brakes.

First off, a red light doesn’t appear to always mean stop, it may mean go faster, duck and dive past that bus, quickly quickly!! (I’m not sure yet going on evidential proof).Secondly, a pedestrian crossing is not necessarily a safe place to cross the road, be you a cyclist or pedestrian. And near a free turn corner -KEEP YOUR EYES PEELED – or you may end up as someone’s hood ornament. It is not that Taiwanese drivers don’t care about driving safely it is just there is this highly competitive edge to outdo one another, to be the best  by beating the light changes from red to green and vice versa. It is a small daily achievement that assuages the Taiwanese ego. “I bet that bus through the lights, HUZZAH” – well not huzzah obviously  but something similar in Mandarin.

As a new cyclist, I love my bike “Dolly”, she’s gray, a bit shiny and has a basket – a very useful implement – which carries everything from my shopping to school gear but not as I found out yesterday a clothes drying rack. (Yes,that may have been an optimism to far.) But Dolly unfortunately is not the most agile of creatures, she has lacksidazical steering and temperamental brakes which on a wet surface a couple of weeks ago lead to a rather spectacular sideways flying head  and ribs crashing against pavement experience.

This experience apart from being painful for a week or so was interesting culturally. I lay stunned on the pavement for a good five to ten minutes  in shock, pain and a with a serious case of shakes and not one person stopped to offer assistance. Scores of scooters passed me, and drivers stopped and stared in the peak hour traffic but I was left to my own devices. Friends here have suggested people didn’t want to  help as they were worried about being sued or knew they couldn’t speak English to me so kept on driving. I’m not sure what it is and luckily I wasn’t badly injured but watching scooter after scooter by the dozen and car after car drive by when I was having a good ole cry and obviously in distress was far more disturbing than the unexpected pavement greeting.

I don’t have a good feeling about this aspect of Taiwanese culture, what happens to a foreigner that is seriously hurt? Since I’ve been here one foreigner was killed in a hit and run with a taxi and another was found near a flight of stairs and now his family is fundraising to pay for his  on-going care.

To counter point this darker aspect, it must be said I have met some wonderful Taiwanese who I am sure would help anyone they saw in need.

I do love my daily bike to and from work though.  Dolly and I leave home about 7.30am and then pedal our way through the university campus and down what can be a frighteningly busy Keelung Road. Half way to my school I stop, get a coffee, and sit and read my book for a good half an hour or so before going to teach my class of little ones.

A local hotel doorman always yells “good morning” to me, the Big Issue guy waves and smiles, the lotus blossom seller always gives me extra blossoms (they make my apartment smell delicious) as I furiously ring my bike bell and avoid hitting pedestrians. (People in iPod bubbles are a problem!)

I am grateful for my bike and my daily cycle of 16 km or so, though the pollution can be full on and the traffic confronting physically and culturally, exercise is helping me stay centered in a country I find  tough going.

Image and text copyright Alexandra (Neesha) Bremner 2011.

Two months in…


After being in Taiwan for two months I am becoming adjusted to my non-adjusted state. Slowly beginning to comprehend the sheer scale of humanity in Taiwan.  And just starting to grasp I know nothing here.

Taiwan apparently is one of the most intensely populated spaces on the planet and in Taipei this is evident, from walking the streets of my neighbourhood at night, to cycling to work each morning and when on the MRT -Taipei’s metro.  Human is packed upon human in a politely Taiwanese manner that may or may not acknowledge how frustrating the shear friction of numbers is.

For me the lack of space is a process, as is adjusting to the social and cultural mores of Taiwanese culture. In Taiwan it appears that things are done a certain way and that is how it is done, any subversion of this is either unacknowledged, denied or ignored. I can’t give a huge amount of evidential proof to back this up but it appears that Taiwanese culture runs on meeting certain expectations and it is assumed one will meet those expectations.  It is frustrating when you come across it as an outsider especially when trying to get done what feels like a basic thing. Stumbling unaware into  Taiwanese red tape is like an angry kitten in a knitting bag…you will become further and further entangled until someone with fluent Mandarin and local comes to your aid.

Recently I had a parcel sent back to the Post Office by a building doorman not particularly fond of foreigners and /or non-Mandarin speakers. To retrieve the parcel from the postal system took four people three days and me bursting into tears in the middle of the post office. Thankfully someone came to my aid and after going back to the building security and talking with the Post Office personal a couple more times the parcel was found.

Taiwanese culture from my initial impressions likes to present a good face, so when it came to retrieving my parcel in some ways it was easier for the post office to say they didn’t have it rather than admit they didn’t know where it was. I also have to own the fact I had no idea to ask the doorman what part of what post office department he had taken the parcel to. I had assumed with my western head it would be easily tracked. It was, but as an outsider and even with the aid of people who have lived here for years, I did not know the right questions to ask nor how to ask them.

The interesting thing for me is though I find this inability to do some things by myself – like retrieving my mail or getting a new sim card because my working Visa is still being processed – I don’t begrudge these experiences though they can be extremely frustrating. These experiences are what make a new country exciting, challenging and wonderfully tear your hair out mind-bogglingly magical. In ten years time I am sure I will look back on the whole how to get your mail in Taiwan saga and laugh. This stuff is expansive.

In Taiwan like no other country I have lived in I need to learn a new cultural interface. Things are so different here, the population pressures and the different cultural articulation of everything makes this a fascinating place to live. Taiwan is not a country you  just move to, it is a country you learn.

Image copyright Alexandra (Neesha) Bremner 2011

Tawain – cycles, burritos and red tape.

I arrived in Taipei, Taiwan a week ago this evening. It has been a whirlwind introduction to this island Republic of China.

The predominantly Mandarin speaking Western Pacific Island has a thriving expat culture and over the last seven days I have been taken into its buzzing  busy lifestyle. Taipei is a mecca of English native speakers teaching English, South Africans, Canadians, French and others working across the employment realm and boy does this community know how to live.

On first impressions Tawain has a very supportive expat community and this is a country where if you want to do something – you can make it happen  – from setting up a design studio to running a highly successful burlesque troupe that performs to  crowds of up to 30,000.

The costs of living here are half the price of New Zealand and that is across the board from apartments to food, clothing  and utilities. And to be honest the variety here is also larger if not strictly “western” in taste or clothing size. Going on wages as well, teaching English ,once I find a job (and there are plenty to go round), will also mean earning about the same money as home, if not a little better. Pretty good incentive for this woman to find a job and live here for a while.

As some of you may recall I have come to Taiwan to learn the in’s and out’s of video production as part of my education towards making documentaries with The Storyteller Project.

I went out on my first shoot last week with my mentor Tobie Openshaw of Big Nose Productions and I loved every minute of it. I am starting at the very beginning and I am grateful for that. But what I can say is that I feel very comfortable behind the camera and setting up rudimentary lighting and soaking in the work environment that is film. I have begun and I feel I am exactly where I am meant to be in my life. It feels pretty humbling to have this sensation and knowing on some level everything in this busy ignore the light change traffic mentality city  is clicking into place for me. (Yay!)

How else can I explain Taipei. 7 Eleven is where you can do everything, from buying asparagus juice (!), getting a sim card (if you have all the red tape boxes ticked and there are many – i’ve been here a week and it is still a work in progress – I need a sim card stat!!!) to buying wine , photocopying and paying your bills. You can even buy dinner there but I’m skeptical on that front.

This city is also a foodies delight with everything from insanely good burritos at Mucho Nacho, Poutine , a plethora of Japanese and traditional Tawainese fair. I really need to get to back to the yoga studio immediately!

A big thanks to my divine friends here who have totally hooked me up and introduced me to some great new friends, places and experiences since my arrival. I am grateful beyond words.  A big thanks to my mentors and friends back home and across this little spinning planet who have helped me get here – you know who you are –  I am so lucky to have you in my life!

This week my focus is getting a job, starting the process for my Alien Resident Card, I’ve always wanted to be an alien, following up on some apartments and orientating myself on my new bike Dolly to this city and its vaguely mentalist traffic. (It’s not Nepal crazy but boy you have  to be paying attention!)

So this is it, the beginning and I am loving it.

Ummmm and on another note can anyone send me some spokies for my bike???? hehehehehe!

Bhutanese refugees and UN celebrations of resettlement.

Eastern Nepal is the home for a significant Bhutanese refugee population who have fled  what the UNHCR calls “ethnic tension”  within the Kingdom of Bhutan.

In a nutshell the situation in Bhutan resides around ethnic Nepali (Lhotshampas), whom have lived in the Kingdom of Bhutan since around 1900. Lhotoshampas make up about 53 per cent of the Kingdom’s population, the minority Ngalongs   at 17 per cent run the show with the Sharchop at 30 per cent  are caught somewhere in the middle. Those of Nepali origin have been harassed out of the country of 1.9 million (rape and murder seems to be the main tools of engagement) and over the border into eastern Nepal with the remaining “Nepali” middle classes becoming highly politicised and in some cases militant with interactions with Nepali and Indian Maoists groups. ( For more information check out the South Asian Terrorism Portal run by the Institute for conflict management here.)

Currently 72,000 Bhutanese refugees live in camps near the shared Nepali /Bhutan border. This figure has been reduced from 108,000 due to a resettlement program which the UNHCR (The United Nation’s refugee branch) runs. This success of resettlement was celebrated today in Kathmandu. For some reason the celebration of this resettlement program to Western nations such as the United States and New Zealand has me a bit irked.

Why is a UN run program celebrating the likely scenario that 40,000 Bhutanese so far re-settled will most probably never see their home again? Why is this UN program addressing the symptoms and not the cause of the plight of these displaced Bhutanese? To be fair the UNHCR states they will continue with  the international community to look into other options  such as repatriation when viable though in reality this is UN speak for maintaining the status quo.

This is my main concern  – we now live in a world where to live in your country of birth is no longer a right nor is it guaranteed that you will have a right of return if displaced. A world where the international agencies meant to deal with situations  such as  what is faced by  those fleeing from Bhutan have very few options. The UN and the international community as a whole seem reluctant to help refugee or displaced populations whose country of origin is not resource rich. It appears the inability for the UN to address the cause of displacement is being celebrated by celebrating the re-settlement of these 40,000 Bhutanese refugees – admittedly in a non-direct manner.

The UNHCR is helping individuals who have been in the Eastern Nepal camps since 1993 by resettling them to the West. Resettlement in many ways is better then living in the limbo life if a refugee camp.But it is an ambulance at the bottom of the cliff solution. Surely the UN and it’s agencies can do better than facilitate the ongoing  “ethnic tension” and consequential  global displacement  then by moving the symptom elsewhere? Is this really what we want to be doing as an international community as a long-term solution?

Here is the link to the UNHCR story.

Changes!

A quick update. The Storyteller Project now has a domain web address and email contact details. Yippee!

My luddite status is shifting…slowly.

The blog etc can now be found at http://www.storytellerproductions.net and you can email me at neesha@storytellerproductions.net.

A  thanks must go to Karen Burgess and Jen Lahey for offering their respective editing skills. And a big thanks to Daniel  Rintz and Jeremy Justice for helping me out with the website – this is a work in progress  so there will be a few changes over the coming weeks  and months – so hang on  while we make this site look ace.

 

Thanks as always for your support.

Neesha

 

NEPAL: Dissolution of paradise (via The Himalayan Beacon)

A fantastic piece by Isabel Hilton from The Guardian.

NEPAL: Dissolution of paradise FROM THE GUARDIAN, UK BY ISABEL HILTON It's not easy being Nepal. Ranked among the 48 least-developed countries, sandwiched between the emerging Asian giants India and China, ruled by a chaotic government that struggles to normalise the country in the aftermath of a nine-year Maoist insurgency, plagued by endemic corruption and the growing impacts of climate change in … Read More

via The Himalayan Beacon

Tibetan refugees in Nepal

Interesting little story of one issue faced by Tibetan refugees fleeing into Nepal.

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Tibetans robbed in Nepal forest

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–>Subas Yonjan

DOLAKHA: As the number of Tibetans entering Nepal from areas bordering Dolakha district increases, instances of them falling vicitms to robbery have also gone up.
Eight Tibetan immigrants en route to Charikot from Lamabagar were robbed near Jhamarsi in Lamidanda VDC on Friday night. The amount of cash and property robbed is yet to be confirmed.
According to police, 10 Tibetans who had entered Nepal illegally were also robbed of Rs 44 thousand in Banchare of Lamidanda last Wednesday. Later, police arrested the Tibetans and handed them over to the Immigration Office.
Meanwhile, Dhiraj Pratap Singh, DSP in the district, said he had received a message that of the eight Tibetans who had illegally entered Nepal, one had travelled to Kathmandu and seven others were on the way to the district headquarters. DSP Singh said security had been tightened in border areas of the district.
Tibetans have also been entering from Gongar and Singati areas. More than 62 Tibetans have entered Nepal from the Lamabagar entry point in the last few months. Police estimate that hundreds of Tibetans might have entered Nepal from other entry points in the district.
Tibetans arrive at Dolakha after walking for nearly five days. DSP Singh said, “Most of them fall sick because of the long trek they have to take and the nights that they spend in the forests.” He also said Tibetans are robbed in Nepal as they cannot speak Nepali and often fall ill due to the tiresome journey they have to make.

Sourced from The Himalayan Times

Does anyone have any good contacts with groups working with Tibetan refugees in Nepal?